Quick edit for my people over at @black.surfers - appreciate the feature 🙏🏾. Wrote a little surfing soliloquy too: . . . I was talking to my barber one day and mentioned that I surf. He said "no way that's crazy, I know another black surfer that I cut too" like we're unicorns lol. Thats how I met @kayiitaj and learned about this amazing movement 💪🏾. I told him about my 5 AM escapades, and he told me I was crazy at first (something about shark feeding times, idk). Somehow, he finally decided to come out one morning and show me the ropes at the lane in SC (dry reef is not a joke). Now I see his sunrise stories all the time hahaha I only started surfing about a year and a half ago, but I imagined very few things influencing my life as much as standing on fibreglass-covered foam in the open ocean has ("black people can't even swim 🙅🏿‍♂️" right?). From regularly waking up at 4 AM to surf before work (1 hr each way, 4 surfs/week on average) for the good part of a year, to deciding to spend a 4 month break from the real world mainly focused on surfing in Australia/Bali (watch video on IGTV 🎬 #vanlife), to a critical consideration of my first full time job search being the distance between my workplace and the nearest waves. People say it's so hard, that it takes so long to learn, but that's what I like about it most. There's always the next step, always achievable with enough time/effort. Puts a lot of 'hard' life problems into perspective. The people too. You get the odd grumpy local, but surfing generally garners a pretty cool, respectful community. Didn't even mention what a sustainable way surfing is to have way too much fun or the physical benefits - the list is too damn long. Just an overall beautiful vehicle for self-development It's always great to see another black face in the water, but it's rare. @black.surfers is changing that narrative, one surfer at a time, and I think that's tOtALly SiiCk duuDe 🤙🏾. Keep growing it chief @kayiitaj ✊🏾. Shoutout to @finite.frames for hooking it up with the @gopro. Shoutout to @i_syght and @vlad_tkachuk4 for the #drone footage 🙏🏾 . . . #surf #black #sunset #ocean #water #nature #california #santacruz #ali #stayhome