tarakerzhner
Nov 29
585
2.42%
Currently taking the biggest break off climbing since I popped a pulley in 2011. All part of life I suppose. I love this photo because - look at my wrist go! Prior to this injury, underclings were some of my favorite clings. A runner up to crimp clings for sure. Even with a body type that struggles to put on muscle, clings of the under variety have always made me feel like my biceps were bulging.
I love looking at this 2017 throwback of me climbing Don't Call Me Dude in the VRG, because this was a turning point in my climbing. At the time, I'd done a couple other routes of the grade that were in my best style - sharp small holds on vertical terrain. Cruxes were always crimpy and suited my strengths as a recovering Smith Rock slab climber.
When we made plans to go to the VRG for my first time ever, I knew there were routes that would suit my strengths well. Particularly, a route Greg had onsighted back in 1847 called Fall of Man. Instead, I started throwing myself at DCMD - a route that absolutely did not suit me, was hard for the grade, and left no micro crimp or fancy footwork to weasle around the otherwise powerful compression moves.
The compression crux - a triple bump on glassy side pulls - was so hard. I ended up sending the route the second time I stuck that crux move. An uncharacteristic send, considering most climbers fall after this move before clipping the chains. But I think because this powerful sequence was my anti style, I had rehearsed the rest of the route into submission by dancing my way through the upper cruxes.
The route ended up being a gateway drug to more powerful climbs or steep routes, and a thirst for trying to do routes in a style I suck at. I am still best at hard crimpy face climbs, but you'll still find me periodically in the arsenal for the next 400 years trying to do Sprayathon.
Photo by @paigeclaassen
@eddiebauer #liveyouradventure
tarakerzhner
Nov 29
585
2.42%
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