426
2.72%
I just googled “how many people in the world surf”. ⁣ ⁣ 35 million peeps. Wild. ⁣ ⁣ In SD, I probably surf with about half of them every day. Crowded, yes. And when you live and surf in PB, it’s a donkey show. All. The. Time. Surf etiquette thrown out. Zinc overload. Boards flying everywhere. ⁣ ⁣ The main goal? Snake everyone and just have fun. IYKYK⁣ ⁣ In Fiji: the above doesn’t apply, (except the Zinc). You come here to get the wave of your life. Ask any mortal surfer who surfed waves like Cloudbreak and sister wave, Restaurants. When ON, they will all tell you it’s: extremely powerful, shallow AF and way scarier than it looks on screen. ⁣ ⁣ And although I didn’t get the ‘wave’ of my life, I did score the ‘waves’ of my life. With some of my closest pals. Sessions that will live in my Fijian diary forever. ⁣ ⁣ Here’s a few favorite action shots from the past week. <3 🇫🇯 // ⁣ ⁣ pc: @griffinthall⁣ #vinaka #fiji⁣
426
2.72%
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