Anytime anything feels off or hard or wonky or just generally sticky, all I have to do is think about surfing and I immediately feel not only better, I feel the kind of even and deep peace that lets you slip into unison with everything and everyone. The goofy-smile-on-your-face kind of peace. It can be any element of surfing - the wave itself, the paddle out, the expression on someone’s face as they’re going down a wave, how « the last one » turns into the « third-last one » every. single. time. The early mornings surfs when the sun breaks over the dark purple landscape and heats my face to the surfs that keep going until the people on the beach are black silhouettes and you can barely see the waves coming in. The coffee before. The shower after. I just have to think about it, about any of it, and I feel a vast, gorgeous peace deep in my chest. Very, very grateful for this time in Ireland where I connected to other surfers who share this wild love. Photos @garymccallphoto @rebellesurf @salty__sensations