In the Western world, the 1980’s were a time go big. See: shoulder pads, power suits, bouffants, spandex, and a garish neon palette. On the other side of the fashion coin was Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake, designers leading an avant-garde drive to redefine minimalism and deconstruction, exploring androgyny and asymmetry through largely monochromatic garments. It is this “purity and austerity” that ran counter to occidental extravagance that Japanese fashion brand @onitsukatigerofficial has paid tribute to in its gothic inflected AW22. Built around the concept of “shadow”, the completely black and white collection feels refreshingly contemporary thanks to flame and flower prints on hems, mini dresses with drawstring waists, and multi-pocketed waistcoats. Everything – inevitably, because of the brand’s deep sports heritage – encourages movement, with generous silhouettes via ultra-oversized T-shirts, kaftans and maxi Bermuda pants neatly matched with voluminous boots and knit sneakers. Typical of Japanese ceremonial dress, clever layering was on full display at the runway presentation of the genderless collection. To celebrate its AW22, creative director @andrea_pompilio caught up with Port to discuss the enduring influence of the 80s and Japanese cultural heritage pieces that acted as a creative springboard. Full story in bio