in the latest issue of @avenueinsider,.I review @thefultonnyc The same sense of familiarity is found in the main courses. Each is expertly made but seldom revelatory. The best of them, like the black sea bass, a crisp-then-yielding filet sitting in a light carrot broth with fava beans and a peanut romesco, captured springtime. Others, like the Dover sole Grenobloise, check the boxes in elegant script. The single best thing I ate at this Poseidon’s temple was a cheeseburger, the Gruyère cheeseburger au jus. My gods, what a glorious thing that was. It wasn’t just that it felt somehow illicit to order it but that it arrived with deeply caramelized onion jus for dipping, with crispy onions secreted twixt burger and bun, and Gruyère for days atop a juicy patty. Link in bio.