And finally, for @avenueinsider, I ventured to Oyster Bay to visit @jesse_schenker's @4springstreet, which I loved. "Liberated from Manhattan, Schenker is gonna Schenker. So it is that the audacious menu includes an ethereal beef tendon chicharron and a fermented fennel sea bream and silken langoustine served in an Italian glass ashtray (it looks like the most beautiful plate in the world) and a duck fat croissant filled with foie gras and served on a pillow. It’s wild cooking on Long Island, man, the work of a chef on a spirit quest, rummaging the world for delicious."