Very happy to have a second column in the @ft_weekend today, standing in for the estimable Jancis Robinson. In this issue I write about ‘le goût anglais’ - or us English winos’ taste for old wine - as well as the joy of drinking, as the French say, “on the fruit”, when young wine is full of swagger. It also includes what it was like to drink a wine that was made when our great great great great great great great great grandparents were alive (1728). Phew!