Raymond Trollat has ascended to saint-like status with wine lovers, but an even greater loss to St Joseph AOC was when Jean-Louis Grippat, its godfather, sold his domaine to the commercial producer Guigal in 2001. From a bloodline of growers, Grippat’s father died young, leaving the family to sell grapes to the negocient Chapoutier. But two weeks before the poor harvest of 1963, Chapoutier declined their crop, leaving them facing disaster. Fortunately, Jaboulet stepped in, offering Grippat advice and barrels, and so he started making his own wines. More progressive than the un-technological Trollat, Grippat had owned the appellation’s best vineyards – ‘Vignes de l’Hospice’ and lieu dit ‘St Joseph’ – Grand Crus in all but name. His sublime 91 – a wine I’d happily dab behind my ears and never wash again – is my favourite ever St Jo, but even this 98 - a lesser vintage in terms of conditions - is a beauty with a silky texture and a remarkably youthful hue. Perfect with a côte de boeuf turned every 5 mins on the stove a la Joël Robuchon. #grippat #stjospeh #syrah