climbingmagazine
Nov 8
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No-Bolt Roulette
This feature by Mike Hutton (@mike_hutton_images) is all about gritstone and hard headpointing and a community that values the danger in their routes. It was originally published in Issue No. 370, and, at the link in bio, it is now free to read.
"When climbing superstar Ron Fawcett conquered one of the Peak District’s scariest-looking arêtes in 1983, he raised the bar for British gritstone. The lower, highball section of this beautifully sculpted edge involves an unprotected, crimpy sequence to the sanctuary of two ancient shot holes, which, fortunately, take Aliens or Tricams. The shot holes are historic reminders that the area was once quarried by means of exploding charges. The final section involves a dynamic move in an exposed position. Whilst most people were enjoying their Christmas lunch in 1983, Fawcett made the history books after just a brief abseil inspection, and utilized one of the first-ever Amigo protection devices in the country (a rudimentary cam made by the German company Edelrid that perfectly fit the shot holes). He survived a fall from above the holes and sent the line next go. Equally impressive was the first female ascent, in 1994, by the then 19-year-old Airlie Anderson. Later, when she was confronted in her local pub about the use of a mattress to protect the lower section, Anderson was so outraged that she punched her interlocutor to the floor."
Tap the link in bio to read on! All photos by @mike_hutton_images.
climbingmagazine
Nov 8
3.8K
1.13%
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