dawoods89
Sep 15
12K
5.27%
Insomniac (8C+/v16) 🧟‍♂️ Fall temps have arrived in the alpine. Finally didn’t melt off the final friction traverse at the end 🫠. Learned how to do some technical heel hooking. Overall was a pleasure to climb on this line that @drewruana established last July. The full line is broken into two parts. The first part is a powerful crimp isolation section into a jug rest (8B). The second part is power tech climbing on friction slopers, heel hooks, and a friction dependent trav until the final jug (8B). I fell too many times on the last trav cause of wet tips. I knew as soon as it got cold n dry this section would not be an issue. Hyped to see this one through. Back in the day this line seemed very futuristic. The original way of doing “We Can Build You” (2nd part) was way more powerful and low percentage. The new heel hook beta makes the crux high percentage, thus making the full connection seem probable. We originally thought “we can build you” was hard 14 but now it feels more like hard 13. Insomniac is on the cusp of 15/16, but do feel like it is harder than most 15s I’ve done in this style. Insomniac is a daunting task to take on. Fall season has begun... time to get to work 🔥 Images by @dreamaliveproductions @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
dawoods89
Sep 15
12K
5.27%
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