gerrylopezsurfboards
Jun 2
6.3K
7.2%
By my 2nd trip in September, 1974, I had begun to identify what was problematic to maintaining a seamless campaign in the Indonesian surf...at least for the 6-8 week stay of those early trips. The waves we found on the beautiful island of Bali were even more consistently plentiful than on our home island of Oahu. This insured that we spent most of the daylight hours in the ocean. First and foremost, was to keep our boards in one piece and our bodies from rolling around on the shallow, sharp reefs. The sun, however, was unavoidable...while effective sunscreens helped our skin, the eyes could and easily would get sunburned. The pain and not being able to open your eyes outside in the sunshine immediately took us out of the lineup...for way too many days of missed waves. When we got to G-Land, everything was more intense. For Peter and I, goggles were a must and certainly were key to the allowing us long days in the water. Life was good. G-Land photos by Denjiro Sato.
gerrylopezsurfboards
Jun 2
6.3K
7.2%
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