「DEEP DIVE」 Welcome back to "DEEP DIVE." In this installation, we took out our magnifying glass to examine the Wide Peg Jean, an Engineered Garments that pays service to the jeans of the 80s. The 1980s marked the start of the designer jeans craze. Denim pants had gone from being seen as pure, orthodox workwear in the 1930s and 40s before being adopted by the Ivy League crowd in the 1950s (white denim only). By the 1970s, it had become the counterculture uniform synonymous with youth. By the 1980s, it had nowhere to go but up. The designer jean wave began as the culture adjusted to the more conservative bent of the 1980s. CLOSED by Francois Girbaud's Pedal Pushers and their "back on the front" design and trademark white printing near the hem was an actual development of a decades-old design. When it came time for Daiki to create a pair of jeans under his label, he looked to the jeans of the 1980s, borrowing the high waist and peg-top shape that starts wide in the thigh and then tapers near the hem. Denim is the most critical fabric in the Engineered Garments ensemble, and on the Wide Peg Jean, Daiki chose to use selvedge denim. This unique fabric requires older looms for its manufacturing process and features a higher quality and tighter twill. On tapered jeans, selvedge's tilted grain can give an unnatural look to the pants. Daiki and expert pattern-maker Kazuya Sawada successfully engineered the Wide Peg Jean - creating a tapered selvedge jean that looks great. Other elements also separate this pair from most pairs of jeans, like the uncommon high rise, the strip of bias tape at the hem, or the unembellished stitching on the back pocket. Three types of denim appear in the Fall Winter 2022 season: Indigo 10oz Cone Denim and Natural 14oz Bull Denim, Black 14oz Bull Denim. The Indigo version is sourced from one of the last batches of Cone Mills Corporation's American-made denim. Made in California, the 14oz Bull Denim has an unusual 3 to 1 (warp to weft) construction. When jeans emerge in the Engineered Garments collection, they do so as a personal project that has fun bending the fashion rules.