In a lineup full of lefts, I finally found a right 😎 @otiseyewear — This session was super tricky with a ton of runners, but not every tube was makeable. I found myself paddling between peaks & in-between a massive rip current and the tide bottoming out, there were two peaks. Every once and a while if you were patient enough this right would pop up and drain straight into the rip. Looking back, I wish I positioned myself a little better on the takeoff of this wave so my entry was a little cleaner but stoked to get this little vision 🙏🏽 Huge thanks to @photographernica for the clip. In this single clip he filmed 4 different waves all across different parts of the beach. He’s the real deal and never misses a wave // Thank you @nicatime @villacolorados for having us 🖤