8.2K
5.62%
I’ve said it before. Surfing is the only sport/activity/endeavor, where one must compete, just to get a chance to simply participate. Unless your in a wave pool, or possibly in the Arctic Circle, Just catching a wave usually requires competing with others, for positioning and priority. There’s no finer example of this, than out at the Banzai Pipeline. Mason and Rory’s latest edit hammers that home, pretty clearly. The crowd factor is off the charts. The danger factor, as well. It truly is a modern gladiator pit. We often surf in similar crowd density, down at Lowers, but geeze, it’s in mushy, head high waves, with zero consequence. 1/2 the surfers are intermediate, 1/4 are old n soft ( like me) 1/8 (or more) are little kids and finally, 1/8 might be pro-level fast n fit surfers. But this pipeline crowd is insane. 100 fast, fit, strong n psycho, expert to pro-level surfers, hucking themselves over and under the ledge....and no taking turns. Ruthlessly Competing. Truly #NoCountryForOldMen. As usual, Mason deftly navigates the chaos and comes up with a few beautiful makes, on a beautiful board, built by myself n the boys, @lostsurfboards. A 7’6” Swallow, with thick ass stringer, mad heapings of ‘90s era rocker and a tie dye sunburst, lamination by @_longtoe ( the smaller boards in quiver photo are @artbyryder) Check his YouTube and enjoy the show.
8.2K
5.62%
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