11K
11.5%
Although this definitely isn’t the best paddle wave it was absolutely a key moment for me from in last weeks swell at Nazare. After rupturing my ACL knee ligament (3rd time!) from a wipeout on a paddle wave back in 2018 at Punta Galea, Basque Country I’ve had some huge mental blocks /fears in my big wave paddle surfing. After reconstruction surgery I was constantly worrying if I’d get injured again, telling myself I can’t or am not capable and just putting up barriers at every opportunity. It’s been 3 years of small steps, building confidence and making gains. Now I can honestly say I’m looking forward to the next paddle swell 🌊🙌🏽😊 . 📸 @vitor_faneca_estrelinha . #bigwavesurfer #bigwave #injury #sportsinjury #mindset #nazare #100footwave #portugal #praiadonorte #biggestwavesintheworld #paddlesurf #surf #surfing #ocean
11K
11.5%
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