A letter to surfing from @jamiebrisick from issue 417 of @surfingworld magazine about 8 months ago. Second shot is around the time I met Jamie in 1982. We were both competing against each other in the NSSA and then on the ASP world tour. While we were both hungry to win, we always got along and shared a sense of humor. Once we retired from the pro tour in the early 90’s he became a closer friend. Our rapport has never dwindled as we go through ups and downs in life. The two shots are from this past month when I caught up with him for a chat on @surfersjournal poddy and a fun surf in Malibu. Dear Surfing, You got me through my hormonal and tormented teens. You provided respite, escape. Then we went into business together and the dynamic changed. I tried too hard, wanted it too badly.... But you did some of your finest work in 2013, when Gisela died suddenly nothing felt good, and I was barely here. Remember back when I moved to New York for those ten years we fell out? ...it was all my doing. But that time away just made me love you more. I know where you like to be touched, and i’m always aiming there, but sometimes I land just slightly off the mark, and instead of a roar I get a murmur, and for that I apologise (I’m always aplogising). But I’m all in. I’m a lifer. So if I’m ever off the mark please just say, ‘A little to the left,’ or, ‘Higher, dummy,’ and I will do everything in my power to make your pleasure match my own. Dear Surfing, you are everything. Jamie #fortheloveofsurfing #dearsurfing #waveki