Spent the past 6 weeks on the sidelines after fracturing my shoulder not making it out of a barrel and getting one of the more violent beat downs from a wave in my life on the first big south swell of the season. Everyone has to pay their dues and my time had come. Excited to finally be back in the water and even more grateful than ever for my health and ability to do the things I love the most. Don’t ever take that shit for granted. Health is wealth 💎