Tonight’s dinner. Beef chow fun. The Cantonese beef and rice noodle classic that gave rise to so many of our favourite noodle dishes in Southeast Asia, from pad see ew to char kway teow. A hard dish to execute at home because it relies on good wok hei, but the secret is to keep the portions small, cook the elements separately and (my best trick) microwave the noodles first so they’re warm and don’t suck all the heat out of the wok.