Northwave Espresso: the OG chunky sneaker that ruled 90s clubland If there is one footwear trend that has been most polarising over the past five years, it’s probably the chunky sneaker. While Raf, Ye and Demna are largely credited for kickstarting the movement in the mid-2010s the trend for oversized kicks can be traced back to the 90s. One of the bulbous styles that has recently re-emerged from obscurity is Northwave’s Espresso. Originally released in 1991, the model emerged as the brands debut signature sneaker. Formerly known as Calzaturificio Piva, Northwave began its journey manufacturing ski boots, but as snowboarding took off in the early ’80s, the company redistributed its efforts into the new upcoming sport. By 1989, snowboarding and skateboarding had become a core movement in youth culture, providing brands like Northwave an opportunity to capture the zeitgeist by moving into lifestyle goods. As a result the Espresso was born. The sneakers outlandish proportions took designs cue straight from Northwave’s signature snowboard boot. The supersized sole (coined the Big Boy) was combined with slick, two-tone uppers in nubuck and leather. Its cartoonishly large shape is quintessentially ’90s, and offered a fashion forward take on models like the Airwalk One and Eric Mayers now defunct Simple sneaker that were popular in the early 90s. The Espresso was a favourite for the rave/club scene in the US and was worn by big names like Thom Yorke of Radiohead and Robin Williams was often pictured wearing them too. Meanwhile, in Tokyo, Harajuku fashion icons Hiroshi Fujiwara, Nigo, and Jun Takahashi popularized the shoe in Japan.