I’ve spent 5 years investing everything I have financially and creatively into shooting the ocean. There’s an interesting dichotomy of being a surfer, and being a surf photographer. Some people hate me for being the latter and “blowing up spots” (for lack of a better term). Whether stemming from selfishly wanting places for ourselves or adhering to the old honorable code of keeping experiences as memories rather than a photograph to show others, I have spent so much time figuring out how to balance it and navigate things the right way. I think that’s one of the biggest factors that’s shaped my work this year and pushed me to shoot images that aren’t tied to a specific place but moreso a feeling or an idea. These were two moments from this year that were meaningful to me. We all have limited attention spans, and I appreciate you investing a sliver of it in me. Thank you