On Tuesday 22 November at a hard hat press dinner - oh! builders - at @akub.london hosted by chef @fadi.f.kattan known for his modern take on Palestinian cooking, I realised the date marked 50 years of my writing restaurant reviews. The first appeared in the Evening Standard of 22 November 1972. I raised a glass of of Aubrey Premier Cru to myself and also to the way in which restaurants have developed in the past half century. It is extraordinary. And a cheering thing in a glum world peopled by some excellent characters, quite a few of whom have become dear friends. Here is arak-cured seabass, just one of many dishes for which I would return. To 27 Uxbridge Street in Notting Hill. Opens Wednesday 7 December