Weekend long read... John McGroder’s season report from up in the islands. “It was about the sixth hour of this session that I scraped in late and leapt out of the lip in an attempt to get out of the way of my heavy Dylan-shaped 7’6”. Another rinsing to the beach. Bert Taylor was waiting with a chuckle. You haven’t surfed this place till you’ve had a real rinsing. Like young Lucas from Bawley Point, who was stripped of everything, boardies, rashie and booties on his rinse this day. Bert and I bantered for a bit. The talk turned to our ageing selves and how long we could keep taking on heavy Office? Left unanswered, I paddled back out to my speedboat to fuel up and change legropes.” SW418 on sale now... support independent surf. 📷 @hatsumiajinomoto