I ordered the anchovies at Kaia-Kaipe, a restaurant just above the docks in the Basque fishing town of Getaria. “The ones on the menu are salt-cured,” she said, “but we have fresh anchovies today if you’d like.” Yes please, I said. This is what she brought. Sweet, not salty. Not tart. Just tiny silvery fish cooked for a few seconds with golden garlic in olive oil. “It’s a lot,” she said. “Would you like half an order?” No thank you, I said. I’ll be fine with the full order. In truth, I could have eaten plate after plate of these anchovies, the freshest I’ve ever had, and still had room for a grilled turbot— seen here after she’d quickly and neatly separated it from its meat.