Got into Bilbao around sunset, hungry. Exploring the range of pintxos at a 100 year old bar called Cafe Iruña seemed like a good start. Place was almost empty. We’re not serving anything tonight, the bartender said, except pintxos morunos. Moorish skewers. Marinated lamb kebabs. It wasn’t the blizzard of pintxos I’d imagined but it was enough for the night.