I was just relaxing after shooting Backdoor this morning, doing an interview with a Brazilian film crew and then having lunch in Haleiwa with my daughter Te’a. And Her dude Ryder. I”ll probably go shoot again this afternoon or go Surfing. How in the world could I ever complain about anything, but still I do.... I guess it’s all relative. This has been my life since I moved here in 1975. It’s sort of like never growing up and seems totally normal because everyone around me lives pretty much the same way. It is A strange life. Surfing and photography have been my life , I am blessed. #jaws #peahi #plotaverse