Ding Yun Zhang Helmet Bag Reference ➡️ Royal Navy MKIII Foul Weather Parka From gorpcore to futuristic performance. Terms used all over fashion publications fluffing up the elusive objectives of the future. The “garment utility” trend is breeding nihilism. We all seem to want exciting usefulness immediately, but keep falling short. Rejection of this futurism is happening in small pockets. A return to order, tradition maybe? Possibly a new type of normcore. The overpromised utility and underwhelmingness of these garments, even if designed and constructed truly well, doesn’t seem to be suitable for daily life. @vanillajellaba , @itsmaysmemes , @aritzia Super Puff, @moncler genius. Some examples of demand and evolution of this abstract, oversized, layered aesthetic the past few years. If online is a fantasy where everything lives, then styles are just costumes immediately discarded. What -core is next? Ding claims that it’s largely up to the designer to use sustainable materials and to make better clothes that last longer. Ironically, you only have seen influencers and celebrities wear his work. The high retail prices, small supply, and natural exclusivity have shown us the same paradox of brands before (Final Home). Yet another neoliberal marketing ploy that is inspired by marginalized communities and not specifically designed for them. The Royal Navy Foul Weather system was developed by the British Military with the help of BMC (Belstaff Manufacturing Co) in the 50s. Traditionally in oilskin, to rubberized cotton/PVC, then finally nylon in the 70s (when BMC changes to BIL). A green is made for marines and an experimental orange during the Falkland wars. Despite his inspirations, Ding’s Helmet bag is an obscured version of the Fouley’s face protector. His work begs for something new. But even with technological progress in construction and textiles, you’re still more likely to see a Fouley out in the wild than his work. Unless you’re committed to the flex bit, vintage wins over the “futuristic design.” For independent designers and companies, “trust in business can no longer be based on visual signals of authenticity, only on proof of work.”