jimsligh
Aug 15
93
2.11%
🌅 New by-the-glass at OSTUDIO for the last days of summer: hazy, thirst-quenching müller-thurgau from Enderle + Moll.
🏞️ Between the Rhine and the Black Forest, Florien + Géraldine Moll— alongside their new cellar master Maxence Lecat, and their neighbors and biodynamic farming compatriots Manfred + Leonie Enderle—are growing some of the most soulful and compelling wines in their region.
🧑🌾🧑🌾🧑🌾🧑🌾🧑🌾 (That list of names is a great reminder that, even in operations this small, it takes more than one person to make wine!)
🏵️🌸🪷 Müller is often derided as a pungent workhorse—and, like many workhorses, it has been used for bad ends. Even the NYT ’s Eric Asimov, in a 2020 column, “It's Time to Put Noble Grapes in Their Place,” pauses—in the middle of a full-throated defense of underdog grapes!—to take a swipe: “I'm not saying all grapes have the capacity to make great wines. I have yet to find a müller-thurgau worth championing, for example.”
With respect. Asimov is not drinking enough Enderle & Moll. Maybe due for a visit?
Their work—Florian, Géraldine, Manfred, Leonie, Maxence (and Sven Enderle, who has since left)—shows us what varieties like müller are capable of given care and attention. It’s worth celebrating.
#ostudioBTG #underdoggrapes
jimsligh
Aug 15
93
2.11%
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