Inside Sunset ,1973. As they used to call it- Pure unfiltered Hawaiian Juice. I sat in my beater car ramping up to paddle out on my raft I had just filled tight with air at the nearby gas station. For me it was pure unfiltered nerves with my Scott Price housing in hand. I watched the intervals between sets, the shore break scenario and the river like rip that fizzled out towards Kammie land. There were no other water photographers to watch and mimic. I negotiated it all. Alone. all senses heightened. I arrived in the zone and was awe struck by the beauty of the inside reef pitch outs. Manually focusing on this one, I was a rookie way out of the lineup and in danger of getting caught by the next wave fast approaching on the outside. Jeff Hakman was paddling at full speed towards me and warned me to " move it " A millisecond later a wall was approaching , I was in the zone and paddled as hard as I could , barely making it over , the off shores blowing spray that was landing all around like a summer monsoon rain. Yes, you could drive a truck through it. #sunsetbeach #jeffdivinephotography