Black's beach, La Jolla, CA 1972 - Santa Ana conditions, September, October. 22 years old with impending responsibilities of life ready to land. As you paddle out the sand could be shallow or carved into large deep pool areas where you would often find your lost board floating . No leash, and a fifty yard swim. With these conditions you just went, no need for swell updates from friends. Better yet, don't ask, don't tell. The salad years. Where is the flux capacitor ? Will Amazon deliver one to my front door?