. ▶五月特別主題 - 領導臺灣的先鋒設計師◀ 近年來臺灣時尚產業人才輩出、大放異彩,而成功的背後,是前輩設計師們的耕耘,造就了更多的舞台與機會。五月特別主題將介紹多位在臺灣時尚產業具有開創性及代表性的先鋒設計師,並致上最高的敬意! 時尚產業並非呂芳智年輕時的第一志願,因為在1970年代的臺灣,根本沒有「服裝設計師」的概念。而大學就讀美術系的呂芳智熱愛藝術電影,為了出國深造並成為導演,呂芳智運用學校所學的手染,自行買布、染布,再拿去西門町寄賣,以籌措學費,意外廣受好評。 適逢國內成衣業萌芽,作品銷售供不應求,也讓呂芳智迅速累積一筆資金。然而,因緣際會下,呂芳智在遊學法國三個月後便決定擱置導演夢,毅然決然地立志投身服裝設計產業。 1982年創立個人同名品牌「呂芳智」,隔年便受邀參與芝麻百貨(中興百貨前身)所舉辦的走秀。呂芳智希望能把中國風的服飾落實在日常之中,擅長在俐落的西式剪裁輪廓之中,融合東方文化精神的設計元素。此外,呂芳智也喜歡將異國文化元素做混搭,作品也常加入少數民族的設計元素,而這樣的混血搭配,也讓呂芳智的作品獨樹一格。1998年,呂芳智受邀參與高美館的國際雕塑藝術節,也是臺灣首次將服裝設計視為流動藝術,不再只是商品,而是藝術。而呂芳智更視之為第二層肌膚、「軟雕塑」,徹底翻轉對材質的概念,並大膽嘗試不拼接,僅透過一塊布完成一件衣服。 2010年,呂芳智與凱渥創辦人,人稱時尚教父的洪偉明共同創立 LUHONG COUTURE,鎖定華麗繁複的高級訂製服。在2015年,呂芳智再度推出個人品牌Lu23,作為退休前最後一個品牌。Lu23主打天然布料和植物染,更為此造訪泰北,帶回有機天然染手織布。 退休後的呂芳智仍持續沈浸於生活之美,遊牧於臺北、臺東兩地之間,探索藝術、設計、空間的美。 In recent years, talents in Taiwan's fashion industry have emerged in large numbers and shined brightly on the stage of the world. Behind the success, it is the hard work of senior designers, which has created more stages and opportunities. In this month, we will introduce a number of pioneering and representative designers in Taiwan's fashion industry, and pay the highest respect to them! Lu, who was majoring in art in the university, loves art films. In order to study abroad and become a director, Lu used the hand dyeing he learned in school to dye cloth by himself, and then took it to Ximending for consignment to raise tuition fees, which was unexpectedly widely acclaimed. In 1982, Lu founded his own brand “呂芳智". He is good at integrating the design elements of the spirit of oriental culture in the neat western-style tailoring outline. In 2010, Lu and Hong, the founder of Catwalk Production House, co-founded LUHONG COUTURE, focusing on gorgeous and complicated haute couture. In 2015, Lu launched his own brand Lu23, as the last brand before retirement. Lu23 mainly focuses on natural fabrics and plant dyeing. After retirement, Lu continues to immerse himself in the beauty of life, nomadic between Taipei and Taitung, exploring the beauty of art, design and space. 內容參考自《衣人事典:臺灣服裝設計展演》 作者:國立臺灣工藝研究發展中心 發行:國立臺灣工藝研究發展中心 #Fashion #designers #呂芳智 #LUHONGCOUTURE #Lu23 #TaipeiFashionWeek #TPEFW #臺北時裝週