Do you know what type of Vitamin C you’re using? ⠀ We’re often told that Vitamin C is one of the most important and effective actives to me using in our routines, especially in the mornings. But they’re not all made equal! ⠀ Did you know there are dozens of types of vitamin c’s that are used in cosmetic formulations? Unfortunately most brands will label any of these as just vitamin c, which can be a little misleading. You can divide them into two categories. ⠀ 🍊 Pure Vitamin C (aka L-ascorbic acid) ⠀ Ascorbic acid is unstable and often difficult to formulate into an elegant formula. It’s also the most effective especially when formulated in concentrations between 10-20%. However because it is so strong many people can’t tolerate it. Skinceuticals are masters of creating great formulations with L-Ascorbic acid. ⠀ 🍊 Derivatives ⠀ Derivatives are slightly different molecules, and they can be water or lipid soluble. Once absorbed into the skin the molecule disassociates into Ascorbic acid, which makes it less active than the direct form. For many this is much more effective and tolerable than direct Ascorbic acid. Derivative formulas are often the most sensitive skin friendly. Additionally brands may formulate multiple derivatives together along with other antioxidants and supporting ingredients. ⠀ Eg: ⠀ - Ascorbyl Glucoside - Ascorbyl Palmitate - Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate - Magnesium Ascorbyl Palmitate - Ethylated Ascorbic Acid (3-O-ethyl Ascorbic acid) - Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate ⠀ 🍊 PS: I do not consider Kakadu Plum extract a vitamin c alternative. So far I haven’t been able to find any studies or evidence to show that Kakadu Plum can provide any level of bio available C. It’s a nice extra addition to a formula. However if a brand is trying to sell you pure Kakadu Plum and claim it’s the same as Vitamin C, quite frankly they’re wrong and I’d steer very clear of them 🤠 What’s your favourite vitamin C serum?