Ascend from the bowels of Antwerp’s main railway station and you emerge into a cathedral of soaring glass, marble floors and extravagant, neo-Renaissance details. It’s quite an overture, but the Belgian port that follows more than justifies such hype. Radiating from the banks of the River Scheldt, it mixes good food with a head-turning taste in clothes and a palpable sense of the past. And now, in the wake of an 11-year, £88 million rebuild, Antwerp’s biggest art museum is back. This once-great city is sparkling again – explore with us by searching ‘Big Weekend in Antwerp’ on thetimes.co.uk