Through the predawn fog, a barely visible gate opens into a field of soft earth, where the scents of hay and manure give way to a distant banter. It’s 5:30 a.m., but it sounds like the party has already begun. Men dressed in cowboy hats, puffy vests called chalecos, Pendleton jackets, and hoodies take swigs from jarros de barro, large clay mugs loaded with a beverage called pajaretes. Tinted with cocoa powder and coffee, plus a splash of 96 percent sugar cane alcohol, the cup is passed to a milker who pulls thick streams of raw milk, called leche bronca, from a cow or goat, unleashing white plumes of steam in the morning air and mixing the ingredients into a warm, frothy drink. A pastime of rural Mexico, a new generation of Mexican Americans is embracing pajaretes and starting the day with boozy, caffeinated, and sweetened fresh milk. Tap the link in our bio to read the story of these clandestine ranch parties by @streetgourmetla 📸: @_erwinr_