MY FIRST WAVE IN NICARAGUA /// I traveled here with 1 goal in mind : GET BARRELED. I woke up on the first morning and saw wave sets rolling through much bigger than I’m used to and had my brand new @sunova_surfboards that is much shorter than I’m used to. How hard can it be?? Well, this morning I found out!! I had some rad locals paddle out with me to show me the layout and honestly I’ve never felt further outside my comfort zone. It was exhausting and terrifying and exhausting AND TERRIFYING. This video was my first wave out there and I don’t even know if I coulda shoulda tucked tried to tuck inside the barrel but when the moment came I didn’t make it happen. Day 1 : FAILED. But the journey is a process and I’m not looking for shortcuts and I’m not about to quit. Today was just 1 day. I now have a better feel for how much better I need to be (and waaay more respect for barrel surfers!!!). Just like I have my kids tell themselves.. I CAN DO HARD THINGS. Stay tuned on @thebucketlistfamily