From a swell in February. It was firing but I couldn’t paddle out. Only way to make it was to do run arounds and jump off the back of the point. This one was solid but the one after was twice the size and nearly took me off. Hid behind a triangle of rock which protected me. It was one of those moments. Thought I was proper f*****. I surfed for around 3 hours and only got about 4-6 waves but it was a session I won’t forget. ✝️ . 7’6 @bossurfboards ❤️ . . Filmed by @nigelairdphotography . . @vans_europe @uppercutdeluxe @surfdome